With scents like “Let Freedom Ring” and “Starts and Stripes”, Yankee Candles sure smell American. And unlike the similarly patriotic sounding  American Eagle, they actually are made in the USA.  The company was the product of a boy’s experiment melting crayons to make his mother a candle, and spawned into what is now America’s largest candle company.

Item found: All Yankee Candles are made in the USA. Candle accessories like diffusers, holders and trays are made in China.

Most common countries: USA (all candles), China (accessories)

Corporate info: Yankee Candle manufactures their potently fragrant candles in Massachusetts.  While there are no current regulations requiring disclosure of ingredients in candles, their site does provide some information. Yankee assures that they do not use lead wicks, which were banned in 2003. Their wicks are made from pure cotton. As far as their collection of over 150 fragrances is concerned, their blend is kept secret. The only hint they will give is that they use a combination of real essential oils and “fragrance extracts”. When I made a quick stop in the store for my research I know the overpowering aroma that had my eyes burning and nose twitching smelled anything but natural.

Overall: Candles can be wonderful for unwinding after a long day. Candles are integral to many traditions and can make a home feel more inviting and warm. But there are potentially dangers beyond fire hazards. According to an article from the Healthy and Natural Journal, 30% of candles used in the US still contain lead wicks. Though now banned in the US, cheap imported candles still frequently contain the toxic metal as a way to keep wicks upright.

Most candles, like Yankees, are made from paraffin wax, a by-product of petroleum. When it comes to “fragrances”, scents are created using  petroleum-based chemicals. The EPA has stated that burning paraffin candles emits carcinogenic toxins like benzene and toluene. The soot residue created from their burning also contains these toxins.

Yankee Candle have a remarkably loyal fan base. Their candles are American made, lead-free, and come in recyclable glass jars that can also be nicely repurposed.  Unfortunately they contain paraffin wax rather than natural alternatives like soy wax or beeswax, which contain no toxins and generate considerably less soot. If you are looking to try some natural alternatives also made in the USA, try Edinboro Creations, UCO, and Bluecorn Naturals.

Thanks to Danika of Greenwala for help on resources for obtaining information for post. Check out her article for tips of how to improve your indoor air quality.

My friends said I was crazy. Venturing into the favorite shop of all children the week before Christmas. Mountains of adorable stuffed animals and shiny plastic figurines bombard you. Familiar tunes fill the air and burrow their incessant refrains into your temporal lobe. A large screen projects classic moments from your favorite childhood movies.  Some call it the happiest place on Earth. Or at least the happiest place in the King of Prussia Mall. You guessed it, I’m talking about my visit to The Disney Store.

Item found: None

Most common countries: China, Vietnam, Honduras

Corporate info: An iconic American brand, Disney has enjoyed as much success as critisicsim it has endured. Growing up in the 80′s and 90′s I was a true Disney fan with a particular fascination with the bouncy delight that is Tigger. During that period, the only Disney drama I was aware of were rumors of sexually explicit pictures hidden in videos. I remember scrutinizing The Little Mermaid VHS cover at sleepovers for the alleged phallic tower. (Interestingly, the current DVD edition has a new design.) As the years went on, Disney has faced a slew of allegations ranging from racism, cryotherapy rumors, and backlash from the Princess line setting the feminist movement back a few decades. While it is obvious that Disney has used their corporate powers to boost marketing and stake a claim in the fabric of Americana, the biggest tradgegy is the manufacturing of their merchandise.

Credit: Disney Store Press Image

Lovable characters make for charming companions, and they also lead to lots of stuff. For every Disney movie or story in existence there is a collection of all kinds of collectibles topping the wish lists of American children. My “Winnie the Pooh” obsession lead to a collection of products worthy of a small museum, just look in my Mom’s attic! But like so many children’s products, the production has been outsourced out of sight, and for many, out of mind. Disney uses tens of thosands of factories, the vast majority in China, to create their offical licensed merchandise. Disney refuses to release a list of these factories, but numerous investigations have released the heartbreaking truth about many of these factories.

The Scholars and Students Against Corporate Misbehavior (SACOM) released the results of such a study, unearthing over 2,000 labor violations in their visit. Forced child labor, illegal overtime and minimum wage violations were rampant. The organization found underage children working as long as 17 hour days with only one allowed day off per month. The workers are housed and fed on site in unsanitary conditions. The costs of these services are deducted from their pay and leave virtually nothing left to send home to their families. The work is often dangerous and exposes young workers to toxins. There are many heart-breaking details of the horrors of these facilities, you can learn more by reading SACOM’s report “Looking for Mickey Mouse’s Conscience, A Survey of Conditions of a Disney Supplier in China.”

Overall: The Disney Company is currently the world’s largest media conglomerate, according to Fortune Magazine. Among their collection of companies is ABC, the network currently running a regular “Made in America” segment as part of their World News program. Challenging readers to search out and purchase products made in USA, they are generating quite a buzz in the ever growing “Made in America Movement.” Without having seen the show, I remained a bit skeptical of the network’s intentions with this popular series. A visit to The Disney Store confirmed my suspicious, where not a single piece of the “All American” Disney merchandise was found to have been manufactured domestically.

Credit: Disney Store Press Image. Cars Toy Made in China.

Disney brings entertainment, fun and joy to children of all ages. The popularity of their brand, stories and characters is not going to go away anytime soon. Disney has a chance to be a leader in the revival of American manufacturing. Bringing their production back home would enable them to monitor their factories, which would also be subject to US labor laws. This would result in an influx of local jobs, a decrease in environmental waste and increased safety assurances. It also means Disney would need to pay US minimum wage, a steep raise over the current wage paid in a Vietnamese factory producing Disney toys of seventeen cents an hour, or to workers making Disney licensed clothing in Burma for six cents an hour (source).

It’s easy for us to blame Disney for being a big, bad evil corporation. They exploit people to boost their already overwhelming profits. But their profits are dependent on one important variable, and that is consumer demand. We need to stop and think about what is going into the purchases we make. If we are willing to pay more for a toy, perhaps it could be locally. I think I speak for most parents when I say that I would gladly pay more for a “Cars” toy for my son if I knew it wasn’t made by exploited children using toxic materials. Until then I will not be supporting the Disney enterprise with my most powerful everyday vote, my dollar.

How do you feel about Disney? As a parent, how do you make ethical spending choices without feeling like you are depriving your kids of something special? What Disney alternatives does your family enjoy?

Confession time: I’m a recovering dollar store enthusiast. I love the cheap thrill of wandering the aisles of stuff knowing I can afford every item I see. A princess wand glow stick? Yes, please! A plastic inflatable dinosaur? Don’t mind if I do! The catch is that most of the items I certainly do not need, and often are products of questionable durability and safety.

Item found: Magnets, candy, crayons

Most common stores: China, Taiwan, Philippines

Corporate info: Five Below is a contemporary take of the classic “five and dime” shop. They cater to the tween and teen market with cheap clothing, toys, candy, school supplies and accessories. The retail franchise began as one original store in Wayne, PA, just a few miles from King of Prussia. Founded by a Philly local, the concept began as an outlet for children to spend their allowance. It has since enjoyed a massive expansion throughout the Northeast.

Overall: Five Below strategically prices their items between $1-5. A step above the Dollar Tree, it has no real competitors. It’s stuck in limbo; a tad classier and more fun than your typical dollar store, but too cheap and tacky to be compared to a real department store. The items are better quality than you typically find at a dollar store, but the vast majority are the same cheap plastic trinkets imported from China. Shiny, sparkly plastic toys, but disposable products none the less. The store is good for some basic staple products like arts and craft supplies, but I would advise staying away from Chinese toys, random body products and the  bizarre Japanese candy.

What interesting finds have you made at the Dollar Store? Have you found anything that was American made? Anything cheap and useful?

When I first started my blog, you may have noticed a widget I had displayed on my sidebar from Change.org. The badge contained a petition to Gymboree and Abercrombie & Fitch urging them to stop their use of cotton from forced child labor. I was shocked to learn about the state mandated child labor that occurs in Uzbekistan every year. Over 70 major retailers had already committed to banning the use of cotton imported from Uzbekistan, but a few were dragging their feet in taking action. Before my recent store visit to Gymboree I was thrilled to hear news of this petition’s success, thanks to conscious consumers like yourself!

Courtesy of Change.org

Item found: None.

Common countries of origin: Bangladesh, China

Corporate information: After the Change.org petition garnered over 3,00 signatures, Gymboree agreed to ban the use of cotton harvested in Uzbekistan. A statement released on their meager corporate website states “Gymboree prohibits the use of cotton sourced from Uzbekistan and textiles produced using Uzbekistan cotton because of Uzbekistan’s history of forced child labor.” Organized by groups like the International Labor Rights Forum and the Cotton Campaign, the petition focused on the government ordered child labor that forces children as young as seven out of school and into the cotton fields. During a three to four month period every fall, schools are closed nationally and children are required to pick cotton, with teachers acting as supervisors to ensure that the student’s quotas of 60-100 pound of cotton each are met daily.

Courtesy of Cotton Campaign

Overall: If retailers are going to continue to import their products using materials produced overseas, they need to be held accountable for those choices. By manufacturing their clothing in Bangladesh or China (both also notorious for child labor) using cotton picked in Uzbekistan, Gymboree was contributing to forced child labor. The success in their change of heart can be attributed directly to consumers. A relatively small group of individuals generated enough interest on the internet to cause a major retailer to change a critical corporate policy. If we use our purchasing power to influence corporate actions, we can create massive positive change. Check the list of corporations to see who has already banned the use of Uzbhek cotton, and those that have refused to, including Aeropostale, Forever 21, Toys R Us and Urban Outfitters. Take action with the petitions and keep applying your consumer power. Hopefully one day a universal ban will create more opportunities for the children of Uzbekistan.

Gymboree is far from an ethical company. It took years for them to agree to this ban and they continue to manufacture children’s clothing in countries ranked highest for child labor violations.  This victory is an example of how ordinary citizens can make change through their purchasing decisions. Imagine if we all started buying our clothing from American-made, sweatshop-free retailers? Big corporations like Gymboree would be forced to compete with this demand by making changes in their supply chain. Do you believe in the power of the consumer? What actions have you taken as a concerned consumer?

I love browsing through stationery stores. The feel of crisp paper and the look of sophisticated notes begging to be adorned with your words bring out the poet in me. I have a set of Crane & Co. thank you note cards that I use after job interviews. They are elegant and sharp-looking without outshining your written words. Not only are Crane & Co’s products all made in the USA, they have a rich history dating back before the Revolutionary War.

Item found: Fine stationary paper and cards.

Most common countries of origin: USA. All products are made in Dalton, Massachusetts.

Corporate info: Crane and Co. is a family owned business now in its eighth generation of operation. Their first paper mill, founded in 1770, was used to print the currency used by the American Colonies. Today Crane & Co. is still the exclusive producer of paper for US currency. All their paper is made from 100% cotton, not tree pulp. The cotton is obtained from recovered textile fibers.

Overall: I’m a bit embarrassed to admit I knew nothing about Crane’s tradition of American paper making. I’m also impressed by their environmental efforts. It never even occurred to me that there was such a thing as tree-free paper! The soft touch of Crane’s paper is the luxurious feel of pure cotton. With my new knowledge in hand, I plan to spend more time checking out the selection at Crane & Co. and less at Papyrus, the equally adorable and perhaps more accessible stationery shop that prints their brand name paper products in China. Just another reason why “snail mail” will never completely go out of fashion. No electronic message can replace the feel and thought that go into a lovely note like this!

Do you regularly use stationery? What stationery do you prefer? Do you think paper making is a dying industry, or will the tradition of letter writing live on indefinitely?

Here are some of my Crane & Co. favorites from the American Made Marketplace!

The convenience of e-mail is unparalleled. You can send thoughts, information, even pictures and video to anyone around the world in seconds. But in a neglected inbox that contains thousands of unsorted e-mails, it’s hard to get a more personal message to stand out. There is still nothing like checking your mailbox and finding a card sent to you with a handwritten message from a friend. In light of the recent news about the Postal Service closing offices in response to declining mail volume, my recent visit to Hallmark had me evaluating the art of what is now known as “snail mail.” How are we sharing our wishes to loved ones, and what do our choices reflect?

Hallmark conjures up images of warm and fuzzy thoughts, reflections on sentimental and tender expressions. Hallmark’s  saccharin-laced messages and cheesy trinkets and collectibles can also push the boundaries on good taste. However you feel about Hallmark, they are the country’s largest manufacturer of greeting cards, and their store turned up quite a few surprises.

Item found: All of the traditional paper cards in the store were made in the USA. The musical cards containing electronic components are made in China. Gifts made in the USA included Yankee Candles, Asher’s Chocolates and books.

Most common countries of origin: USA (cards), China (gifts/collectibles)

Corporate information: Based in Kansas City, Hallmark remains a family operated company with deep roots in their community. With factories in six states, Hallmark employs 7,700 employees nationally, over half of its total workforce. The company has built a reputation for community involvement, their efforts in boosting the local economy of Kansas City in particular have won them humanitarian awards. They have also received nods from The Human Rights Campaign and Working Mother’s Best Companies Report for creating positive work environments. Though the majority of their staple products are still made in the USA, in 2009 they laid off and outsourced about 7% of their domestic workforce, citing economic hardships.

Overall: Although Hallmarks’ layoffs have sparked outcry, my analysis on the situation is focused on the positives. The truth is that many companies have exclusively outsourced their manufacturing, and in today’s economic climate I am happy to find companies that manage to maintain the majority of their domestic operations. I did a quick experiment when I returned home to confirm my findings. Being the stereotypical first time Mom, I saved all the cards my son received in February for his first birthday. Of the nineteen cards he received, six were Hallmark brand, and all are stamped made in USA.

Giving greeting cards may not be as eco-friendly as sending an “e-card”, but most of us are going to continue shopping for cards for birthday gifts and other special occasions. Look no further than the addicting Pinterest for inspiration on how to reuse greeting cards into everything from wreaths to ornaments.

The next time you are in the store for a greeting card, take the extra second to flip the card over and see where it was made. Or better yet, make your own! Do you prefer getting cards in the mail as opposed to e-cards? What do you do with old cards? And does it matter to you where they were made?

If they are banking on free publicity from frequent scandals making the headlines, then Forever 21 might actually know what they are doing. Otherwise, their misguided attempts at designing, manufacturing and marketing cheap juniors fashions are all epic fails. From labor scandals to intellectual property suits, this company seems to have the formula down for attracting the media. While multiple protests and even a documentary (“Made in L.A.”) have been inspired, the news seems to have missed the chain retailers target audience: teenagers.

Item found: None

Most common countries of origin: China, Korea

Corporate information: Owned by Korean immigrants known for their outspoken Evangelical Christian beliefs (check the bottom of your shopping bag for a bible verse), this fast-fashion chain targets the junior’s set with cheap and trendy fashions. The company originally manufactured their clothing out of LA until they were hit with a law suit in 2001 for labor violations. Shortly after they decided to outsource most of their production to Asia (where, coincidentally, Garment Worker Centers don’t exist). Forever21 has also been sued over 50 times from various labels including Anthropologie for blatantly knocking off their designs. They were most recently in the news for their controversial “Allergic To Algebra” shirt, released just in time for back-to-school shopping.

Overall: Where do I even start with this mess? When it comes to their religious beliefs, the owners have the right to put whatever messages they want on their products. I find it a bit odd that the owners apparently based their business model on instructions given to them by God on a local mountain (according an interview conducted by Business Week), but to each their own. What I find more perplexing is why God would instruct them to make slutty club gear for teens. Because a sheer fishnet dress seems like the perfect ensemble for bible study.

In regards to the labor woes, it’s the classic tale of outsourcing our ethics. Forever21 couldn’t get away with violating worker’s rights in the US, so they moved it overseas. A comprehensive article by Business Week reports that a small percentage of  their clothing is still made in sub-standard factories in L.A. Another reminder to do your research before you buy something, regardless of what the label says (and another vote for pro-union)!

I’m more conflicted about the authenticity and sexism issues. I certainly don’t support Forever21 selling a line of illegally designer-inspired clothing. Fashion is the product of a designer’s work and vision, and should be protected as such. But can you blame teen girls wanting to copy the cute looks they see in Vouge using their babysitting or waitressing money? When I heard about the Algebra drama, I have to admit I silently agreed, I’m allergic to algebra too! I’m not sure I buy into the outcry over the message being a sexist portrayal of male mathematical superiority. It’s defintely in poor taste and clearly not the most motivational of designs, but I see it more as harmless fun. What I’m more concerned about is what went into making the silly shirt.

Whatever way you look at it, Forever21 is obviously a store to avoid if you have any interest in being a conscious consumer. I would love to hear what my readers thinks about some of the issues raised. Does it bother you that Forever21 stamps a bible verse on their  bags? What do you think of their obvious copying of high-end designers? And what is your take of the now infamous Algebra shirt?

When I was in middle school, my sisters and I got several catalogs in the mail featuring junior’s fashions. Every November, my Mom would collect the catalogs and ask us each to go through them and circle items or mark pages with things we would like for Christmas. Fast-forward to this summer when I saw my Mom sporting a particularly cute pair of sandals. When I asked her where she got them, I was surprised that she had ordered them through dELiA*s (how annoying is that to type out?)! Apparently the catalogs still come regularly to the house, and my Mom has been taking advantage of their deals on trendy gear.

Item found: T-shirts and tank tops. Mostly graphic tees with snarky messages.

Common countries: China, USA, Philippines, India

Corporate info: Founded in the 90′s as a catalog business aimed at teenage girls, dELiA*s (that’s the last time I’m typing that out) has expanded into retails stores in malls nationwide. They offer the standard junior wares of trendy jeans, fitted tees and funky accessories. The merchandise consists of a mix of imported clothing as well as a surprisingly large percentage of items made in the USA. Delia’s (that’s much better) prints custom designs on shirts from domestic brands like Local Celebrity and Junk Food. On their website, you can search for all their American made designs by typing in the keyword “USA”, yielding 100 results.

Overall: The store was filled with pre-teens hunting through messy piles of scattered clothes. The first thing I was drawn to were the graphic tees, which were currently on sale,  ”buy one, get one 50% off”. The tables featured several shirts that grabbed my eye, particularly the prints of silly dinosaurs. If you know me, you know I love a good silly dinosaur. I just about freaked out when I saw they were made in the USA! I quickly gave in to the madness and joined all the teeny-boppers in the scrambling. I recruited my husband who was hiding out on a mall bench with our son, and we began digging through the piles until I settled on these two gems.

“I love you this much…that’s not that much”.         “T-Rex hates push-ups”

Can’t beat short-armed T-Rex humor! What’s your favorite graphic tee?

Touted as “The All-American brand,” Coach originated in NYC, but hasn’t produced a bag domestically in over twenty years. I shy away from designers like Coach not only because of price ($700 python-embossed leather tote, anyone?), but also because I try to avoid products made with animal products like leather, fur, or animal skins. I was particularly concerned about Coach’s merchandise after discovering that every bag I checked was made in China, a place notorious for the most agracious of animal abuses. My familiarity with the bags stemmed more from seeing their knock-offs on every street corner in Georgetown, the flea market at the Eastern Market, and on the streets of nearly every downtown.

Item found: None

Most common countries: China

Corporate info: Coach was founded in 1941 in New York, originally operating out of a single loft factory in Manhattan. The original owners were resistant to outsourcing, but after selling the company to Sara Lee (yes, the same Sara Lee that sells Ball Park Franks and Jimmy Dean sausages) in 1985,

"This is a Coach bag. It was handcrafted in China from the finest materials..."

manufacturing was moved overseas. The store manager I spoke with was polite and interested in my inquiry. I related some of my concerns regarding animal welfare and she reassured me that all of the materials, leather and fur, are sources primarily from the US. The material is then shipped to China for assembly, then returned back to the US for retail sale. As to why this can not all be done in one place, leaving a smaller footprint, it all comes down to the bottom line. In addition to the generic corporate responsibility statement, Coach maintains an online “counterfeit education” section, including a hotline for consumers to report any knock-offs they come across.

Overall: I was surprised to find that such a high-end luxury brand makes all of their bags in China. They may be saving money exploiting cheap labor, but these savings are certainly not being transferred to customers.  I was also shocked to learn more about the counterfeit industry, which many consider a victimless crime. I never gave much thought to these designer impostor purses, writing them off as a cheap way to get a bag without paying the full price for the label’s brand name. Tacky maybe, but unethical? I have to admit I once bought a fake Kate Spade bag at the flea market at the Eastern Market in DC.  It was cute and it was $20; what was the harm? Little did I know that my fabric-coated cardboard bag could be contributing to things like sweatshops, child labor, and organized crime. According to the “Fakes are Never in Fashion” project by Bazaar, the counterfeit industry costs the US over $250 billion and 750,000 jobs annually. With so many gorgeous and unique bags being hand-printed by local artists and companies, it’s hard to justify supporting an illegal industry over a creative one. And when it comes to the real thing, are you willing to shell out hundreds of dollars for a bag made in a factory in China?

Do you own any designer bags or knock-offs? Do you think Coach bags are worth the price, or are you paying for the brand name? What do you think about their outsourcing to China?

Another trendy store I have never shopped in, Bebe is targeted at teens offering what they define as “hip, sexy, body-conscious designs.” My mind translated this as hipster club wear, but I found the clothing to be quite tame, and surprisingly, some was American made. Featuring casual basics like jeans and T’s to dresses and outerwear, Bebe was randomly in the spotlight recently after the debut of their “questionable” workwear line.

First mall trip with the whole family.

Item found: T-shirts (mostly with “Bebe” printed on the bust line), blouses, dresses

Common countries: China, Hong Kong, Brazil, USA, France

Corporate info: Inspired by “to be or not to be,” Bebe originated as an independent boutique in San Francisco in the 70′s. It expanded nationwide to become the juniors’ mall staple it is today. Beginning with exclusively locally made clothing, they now manufacture about 1/3 of their clothing in California. The remaining majority of merchandise is outsourced abroad, primarily to Asia. After a campaign by Liberation BC, Bebe established a non-fur policy in 2008. They also have a corporate green initiative in place that aims to increase local manufacturing and the use of recycled products in their shipping materials.

Minus the fishnets, this is cute.

Overall: Like most major mall brands, Bebe outsources most of their production to countries like China. However, they stand out in their attempt to manufacture more locally.  Whether their offerings are too risqué or not, I give them props for following this growing trend. After googling their work wear debut, I was surprised to find that the debate on the work appropriateness of this line was spreading like wildfire in the fashion and style blogosphere. It might not be my style, but I’ve seen more questionable clothing worn in the workplace, even in healthcare. Whether it’s see-through scrubs, ill-fitting low riders, or stiletto-heeled boots, we have all seen some office fashion snafus. But today many offices are adopting more casual dress codes.

What is your work wardrobe like? Do you know if any of it is American made? What inappropriate office fashions have you seen at the office?